Curious Expeditions' Journal

From the Voyage Vaults, Object No. 30

Just as I was about to head out the door of the tourist-filled St. George’s Basilica in the Prague Castle (Pražský hrad), I found myself face to face with a skull and pleasingly arranged assortment of bones. I snapped a few quick pictures as a guard yelled at me in Czech before sheepishly scurrying away. I just love this skeletal display – and for the life of me I cannot figure out whose bones these are. I’ve tracked down sources claiming it is the relic of St. Adalbert, St. Ludmila, and Prince Vratislav I. St. Ludmila seems to be the best guess- her remains definitely seem to be in the basilica, although it is still unclear as to whether she is encased in a tomb, or is indeed the decorated skeleton on display.

St. Ludmila was supposedly the grandmother of Good King Wenceslaus (so good he was immortalized forever in the dreary Christmas song). She had great influence over young Wenceslaus, who began ruling Bohemia at the gentle age of 8, which which induced rage and jealousy in the young ruler’s mother, Drahomíra. On September 15, 921, Drahomíra had St. Ludmila strangled with her own veil by two noblemen. Around the year 1100, her remains were moved to St. George’s Basilica – and quite possibly into a small glass window, tied with pink ribbons and surrounded by silk flowers.

I’m throwing in a photo of these smaller relics, also from St. George’s Basilica. I just love the work that goes into bestowing a few unremarkable, tiny bone fragments with the pomp and circumstance fitting of a venerated saint.