Curious Expeditions' Journal

An Ocean of Bottles

Dear readers, this absence of late is unforgivable!

But if we may plead our case, we (D and M) have had a most busy of years, with D working on the Atlas Obscura, and M making her way in the world of freelance motion graphics/animation. Though we are thrilled with the things we’ve been up to, there hasn’t been much time (or funding) for travel. It certainly makes keeping up with Curious Expeditions more difficult.

But know this! There are big plans for travel on the horizon – and with it will come renewed posting here on Curious Expeditions. In the meantime we will be doing our best to post from our past travels, as well as places we love here in New York and the surrounding area. One of our favorite places in Brooklyn is Dead Horse Bay.

M wrote about Dead Horse Bay on the Atlas Obscura – for more information on how to get there, head over to Atlas Obscura for the details.(Modified from the original version written for Atlas Obscura.)

Thousands upon thousands of bottles, broken and intact, many over 100 years old litter the shore. Though other hardy bits of trash pepper this beach of glass: leather shoe soles, rusty telephones, and scores of unidentifiable pieces of metal and plastic. The beach is usually empty, conjuring a quiet, eerie post-doomsday kind of scene that is the perfect setting for scavenging another era’s trash.

Like most of New York City, Dead Horse Bay has a long history of changes. Over the years, much of old New York has been torn down, replaced, torn down again, and replaced again by new buildings and people, and the layers of history are all but forgotten. Not true at Dead Horse Bay, where remnants of the past litter the beach today.

Along Millstone Trail near the bay, a millstone is left over from the 17th century, when Dutch settlers used the water for tide mills to grind wheat into flour.

The bay was given its name sometime in the 1850s, when horse-rendering plants still surrounded the beach. From the New York Times: “Dead Horse Bay sits at the western edge of a marshland once dotted by more than two dozen horse-rendering plants, fish oil factories and garbage incinerators. From the 1850′s until the 1930′s, the carcasses of dead horses and other animals from New York City streets were used to manufacture glue, fertilizer and other products at the site. The chopped-up, boiled bones were later dumped into the water. The squalid bay, then accessible only by boat, was reviled for the putrid fumes that hung overhead.” As the car industry grew, horse and buggies — thus horse carcasses — became scarce, and by the 1920s, there was only one rendering plant left.

It was during this era, around the turn of the century, that the marsh of Dead Horse Bay’s began to be used as a landfill. Filled with trash by the 1930s, the trash heap was capped, only to have the cap burst in the 1950s and the trash spew forth onto the beach. Since then garbage has been leaking continually onto the beach and into the ocean from Dead Horse Bay.

Of the leaking garbage, what has stayed in tact over 60 years of rolling around in the ocean are namely bottles. So very many bottles. Though we were lured to Dead Horse Bay by friends under the promise of bottle scavenging, it was the atmosphere of the place which truly captured our fascination. D and I marveled – under the weight of our bag laden with old bottles – at the fairytale sound of clinking glass as the gentle waves shifted them about. There’s no place quite like it; and in its quiet feeling of apocalypse, Dead Horse Bay is mysteriously peaceful.

The horses aren’t quite gone either; found throughout the bay are one inch chunks of horse bone, a somewhat unpleasant reminder of Dead Horse Bay’s pungent past. D and I figured we’d better grab one of those as well, and the bone chunk sits, a venerated piece of century-old trash, under a glass dome in our apartment.